Q. How True are Easton
Wheels?
Easton wheels are extremely true. We
routinely see lateral and radial trueness to within 4/1000
of an inch. But initial trueness is not the most critical
factor. In order for the wheels to remain true, even spoke
tension is what really matters. That's where we excel. We
think it's more important to sacrifice a few thousandths
of an inch of initial trueness to maintain even spoke tension.
That few thousandths of an inch may be visible to the experienced
eye, however on the road it's insignificant. Even spoke tension,
on the other hand, is extremely significant, and that's what
is going to keep your wheel true. return to
top
Q.
Where can I find Easton Wheel Systems?
Check the dealers link in this web site for a near-by retailer. We're
bringing new dealers onboard almost daily, so if you don't see
one that is conveniently located, give us a call - we may have
recently added one near you (1999 was the first year we sold directly
through bicycle retailers). Note that dealers that typically have
Easton wheels in stock are highlighted. Dealer's web sites can
be accessed through hyperlinks from our site. If all else fails,
you can purchase your wheels through us directly, or we can set
up your favorite pro shop as a dealer. return
to top
Q.
Are Easton wheels compatible with Campagnolo drive trains?
Easton wheel systems are compatible with Campagnolo 9 and 10
speed drive trains (except ATB wheels, of course). Here’s
how it works. The R3 hub used on the Ascent II, Orion II and
Tempest II wheels utilize cassette bodies that come in two different
configurations, Shimano (shallow splines) and Campagnolo (deep
splines). When you purchase your wheels, you simply specify whether
you want Shimano or Campagnolo compatibility…the wheels
will be delivered with the correct cassette body already installed.
Just install your cogs and you’re done. If you already
have one configuration and want to switch to the other, it’s
a very simple matter of swapping cassette bodies. The swap is
extremely simple to do and takes about one minute. The cassette
bodies are available through your local Easton dealer. So if
you have one bike with Shimano and the other with Campagnolo,
you can use your Easton wheels on both by making the cassette
body swap. By the way…the Shimano cassette body is compatible
with Shimano 8, 9 and 10 speed cogs (including new Dura Ace).
Campagnolo cassette body is compatible with Campagnolo 9 and
10 speed cogs.
The standard Circuit and Vista models use
a different type of cassette body mechanism which utilizes the
Shimano standard. To address Campagnolo compatibility, we came
up with an all new hub design, however, you must specify at the
time of purchase whether you want Shimano or Campagnolo. Unlike
the R3 hubs, the Circuit and Vista hubs cannot swap cassette
bodies. Once you decide whether you want Shimano or Campagnolo,
you’re pretty
much locked in. Key words…pretty much….read on.
There is another way to make your Shimano
compatible Circuit or Vista compatible with Campagnolo drive
trains. There are aftermarket cogs available that fit Shimano
splined cassette bodies but are spaced for either Campy 9 or
Campy 10 cogs. Popular units are made by Wheels Manufacturing
and American Classic. We must recommend against this system for
the Circuit Shimano conversion – while
we’ve seen it work fine, mostly it doesn't due to
clearances. For Vista, it seems to work fine. For both wheels,
we must recommend against using the aftermarket cog conversions,
however, if you must go this route, be certain to have a certified
mechanic check the shifting and derailleur clearance before you
ride your bike.
For older R2 and R1 hub systems, the conversion
is more involved and requires that the wheel be sent to a service
center for a complex conversion. If you need information, please
call Easton’s technical department directly. return
to top
Q.
Does Easton make 650c road wheels?
Yes we do. Ascent II, Tempest Comp and Ascent Pro are all
available in 650c. We generally have 650c wheels
in stock, if not, we can generally build them in short
order. return
to top
Q.
Why do spokes break? What makes Easton T3 spokes so much better?
For one thing, according to DT/Swiss, even minute amounts
of play in the hub flange will result in the material
of the spoke becoming brittle. This condition will leave
the spoke susceptible to breakage. (for more information,
see the DT/Swiss web site at http://www.dtswiss.com/en/laufradbau-faq.html)
Easton T3 spokes are firmly affixed at the hub, and are
not subject to such movement. For
more information, read our faq's below. return
to top
Q.
Can a T3 spoke pull out of the hub?
No, it can't. In independent laboratory testing,
the spokes would snap in half long before the threads
would fail. The
lab tried everything, but they couldn't make the hubs fail. Then
again, have you ever seen a spoke pull out of a
nipple? return
to top
Q.
Where do I get a replacement spoke?
When we designed the hubs, we made sure that the threads
were the same in the hub as they are in the nipple. Many
shops have a machine for threading the end of a spoke. They
have these so they don't have to keep a large assortment
of different length spokes in stock - they can simply
cut and thread one to the correct size. So, to
make an Easton twin threaded spoke, they need only cut
off and thread the head of the spoke. That said, we keep
a large inventory on hand, and they are always available
on a moment's notice. And since they use conventional
spoke blanks (albeit quality double butted stainless),
they are not expensive - under a buck each for black
replacements!
Our goal is that you are not dependent upon us for replacement,
and you don't have to send off to some far away place
and wait while the season passes by. Also, there's
nothing exotic about our spokes, so replacements don't
cost much more than any other quality stainless steel
spoke. return to top
Q.
Is it hard to replace an Easton spoke?
Not at all. The procedures are simple and detailed instructions
are available in the manuals provided on our Technology page. return
to top
Q.
Can I replace a spoke in the field, for instance, on the side of
the road while touring?
A. Yes, you can, but you'll need to modify the technique outlined
in the instructions in our Technology section.
Since you can't wait 12 hours for the thread locker to cure,
you'll have to manually prevent the spoke from spinning during
truing. You can do this by grasping the spoke with pliers or
vice grips, however, YOU MUST PROTECT THE SPOKE from being scarred
by the tool.
A common problem with standard straight pull spokes (i.e., "nail
head" design) is that they can spin during truing. To stop
this rotation, some technicians grasp the spoke with pliers
or vice grips. This should never be done, because even the smallest
scar in the spoke constitutes a stress riser. Stresses from
usage will concentrate at this spot and can eventually cause
fatigue failure.
If the spoke is protected, however, then grasping it with pliers
is fine, provided that you don't grasp it so hard that you deform
it. Wrapping a rag, or electrical tape, or similar protection
is suitable, even if it is a bit cumbersome.
In the Easton application, there's another reason to make sure
the spoke does not rotate during truing. The thread locker works
by the formation of a crystalline structure between the threads.
In simple terms, it's like putting sand in the threads until
they basically jam up, thus halting fastener rotation. Different
Loctite formulas have different strengths, and we've carefully
selected the right one (262) for our application (tight enough
to hold during truing, but still allow removal). If left to
cure completely, then the proper crystalline structure will
form and all is well. But if upset during curing, then the Loctite
will never achieve full strength.
Here's the kicker - full strength isn't important in day to
day use -- it's only necessary when attempting to true the wheel.
So even if you don't have full cure, the spoke will stay put
while you're riding. Thread friction combined with even a moderate
cure is sufficient for this.
If you keep the spoke from spinning during repair, then it's
ok to ride the wheel right away. The Loctite will still cure,
as long as it doesn't spin within its bore. And if you do allow
it to spin before curing, you can still ride it, but you might
consider replacing it later under controlled conditions. So
field repairs are OK. Also, water does not seem to hurt the
threaded union in this application, provided that the components
are dry and clean during initial installation. Even if wet or
contaminated, the diminished hold will be sufficient for riding.
Probably the biggest drawback is that you can't fix an Easton
spoke as quickly as a J bend spoke for obvious reasons. Actually,
once you get used to the technique, repairing a spoke is pretty
quick, but since they rarely break, you'll have little opportunity
to practice. The payoff is that you will break far fewer spokes,
if any. return to top
Q.
What's the difference between black spokes and silver spokes.
A. Nothing, except for color. Black spokes are made by applying
a black oxide coating (not anodizing) to the spoke. It's a topical
coating for cosmetic purpose only, and does nothing for the
function or strength of the spoke. return to
top
Q.
What happens if the spoke shears of at the hub?
If you remove the end caps, you'll notice that the spokes thread
all the way through the hub and exit on the inside of the hub
shell. We did this so that in the highly unlikely circumstance
that you break a spoke off flush with the hub, it can still
be extracted from the inside. return to top
Q.
Why are the nipples on the rear wheels different colors?
The rear wheel features brass nipples on the drive side and
alloy nipples on the non-drive side. Alloy nipples are lighter
than brass, so we use alloy everywhere we prudently believe
them to work best. We use brass nipples on the drive side of
the rear wheel because skill levels of mechanics vary. When
high tension is involved, it's generally easier to true a wheel
that is built with brass nipples. The spokes with the highest
tension are on the drive side of the rear wheel (due to dish
offset for cog clearance), so it makes sense to sacrifice a
little weight for long term serviceability. return
to top
Q.
Why doesn't Easton use bladed spokes?
We carefully considered using bladed spokes, but decided against
it. In wind tunnel tests, bladed (and ovalized - hereafter "profiled")
spokes have proven to be very effective. The caveat here
is that they show their greatest advantages vis-a-vis round spokes
when the airflow is from straight ahead. As soon as you
introduce even a small component of side wind (yaw angle as low
as 2 degrees), the larger surface area of profiled spokes acts
either as a lifting surface, or develops airflow separation (with
related generation of vortices), or both. The bottom line
- creation of lift cannot be accomplished without corresponding
increases in drag.
Simply stated, a profiled spoke in a static or head-on air stream
can be very effective. However, a profiled spoke in a side
wind is a propeller.
A round spoke always presents the same small profile to the air
stream, whether the angle of attack is head on or from the side. When
you consider the wind direction, speed of the bicycle, and rotational
speed of the wheel, it becomes apparent that there is an alphabet
soup of aerodynamic considerations happening throughout the course
of the ride. For this reason, we believe that swaged (butted)
spokes present the best real-world aerodynamic profile. return
to top
Q.
Why don't Easton T3 Spokes turn in the hub when truing the wheel?
Easton T3 spokes thread all the way through the hub (see the
above faq on how our spokes are different), so this is a very
good question. Before insertion into the hub, we coat the threads
with a thixotropic thermoset plastic. This compound is carefully
formulated (standards ISO-10964, ASTM D696K-1 Military Spec
S-46163A type 2, grade 0) so that the breaking torque (force
needed to initiate fastener rotation) and prevailing torque
(force needed to continue fastener rotation after initial breaking
torque) allow spoke removal, yet are substantially higher than
the same forces needed to turn the nipple during full tension
truing. return to top
Q. If T3 spokes are made from
the same materials as common spokes, what makes them stronger?
Our wheels use premium stainless steel stock, as do many of
our competitors. What makes our spokes stronger is how stresses
are distributed and disbursed. Our goal when designing the Easton
hub was to minimize the various forces that lead to fatigue
and failure of a spoke. The Easton T3 spoke is better able to
withstand the various forces imposed upon it, and here's why:
There are three kinds of stresses in bike spokes.
1. Peak static stresses (when the wheel is not being ridden,
due to the spoke tension).
2. Dynamic stresses (when the wheel is being ridden, due to
the changing loads the rider puts on it).
3. Residual stresses (due to forming the spoke end).
In all wheels (including Easton), the first two stresses, static
and dynamic, are about the same, so they do not vary significantly
between ordinary wheels and Easton wheels. What is different
between Easton and ordinary wheels is where static and dynamic
stresses hit the spoke. In headed spokes, these two stresses
exist at the same location as the residual stresses (from forming
the head or bend). This is bad. You can use the principle of
superposition to find the total stress at that spot by adding
the three kinds of stress that occur there: residual stress
plus static stress plus peak dynamic stress gives the total
stress on the spoke at that spot. That's the highest stressed
spot on the spoke, and that's where it typically breaks in fatigue.
The benefit of T3 is that static and dynamic stresses decrease
along the threaded length. That means these stresses decrease
as you follow the spoke farther into the threads in the hub.
The static and dynamic stresses are maximum at the external
edge of the hub - but there is no residual stress there since
the threads are buried inside the hub. The part of the spoke
at the hub edge is virgin metal, with no residual stresses or
stress risers. Threads and the small residual stresses that
remain from forming them are farther down in the
hub, where the static and dynamic stresses have already begun
to dissipate from their peak at the outer edge of the shell.
For this reason the peak total stress is lower in a T3 spoke.
Therefore, Easton T3 spokes can withstand a greater number of
stress cycles. That is, they last longer. return
to top
Q.
Why don't Easton wheels come with quick release skewers?
Our observation was that riders with wheel upgrades often
choose to purchase aftermarket skewers as well. There are
many high quality skewers available, so the decision on
which one to buy is based upon styling, weight, ease of
function and cost. In short, when you purchase Easton wheels,
you're paying for technology and craftsmanship of the wheel
itself. If we included skewers, it would increase the purchase
price, as well as limit your skewer selection. return
to top
Q.
With reduced spoke counts, are Easton wheels stiff enough?
The stiffness of any wheel depends primarily on the stiffness
of the rim and stiffness and number of spokes. For a
stiffer wheel, you need either a stiffer rim, or stiffer
spokes, or both. For spokes that means either steel rather
than titanium, thicker gauge rather than thinner, and
more rather than less number of spokes. Unfortunately,
all of these choices have tradeoffs: mostly increases
in weight, and in the case of thicker or more spokes,
poorer aerodynamics. The trick remains to find the optimum
balance.
Fortunately, most bikes are not very sensitive to wheel
stiffness. Rarely is it a problem for good performance.
About the only disqualifying condition for flexible wheels
is if it bothers a particular rider. In some cases flexible
wheels can be the "last straw" on bikes that
are already built with flexible parts (fork, stem, crank,
bb, etc.). Additionally, as it relates to handling, uniform
flex characteristics are more important than overall
stiffness. Non-linear flex can be at best, quite disconcerting,
and at worst, overtly dangerous.
At any rate, yes, Easton wheels are stiff enough; in
fact they are stiffer than many other wheels, including
some rigid spoke composites. Easton's design has uniform
flex characteristics as well. return to
top
Q.
What's the difference between the Circuit Comp and the rest
of the Easton models? How come it costs $200 less?
Circuit Comp was conceived as the OEM wheel for the Schwinn
program. Our goal was a reasonably light (1850 grams)
aero clincher that was more economical to build. We were
careful in our design and component selection, and when
we were done, we couldn't believe that we had achieved
a for real weight of only 1650 grams per pair! The writing
was on the wall, and we decided then and there to make
this wheel available for the aftermarket. We're pretty
excited about the potential of this model.
Here's what we did to keep the cost competitive:
Black anodized hubs: You'd be surprised how complex it
is to get the mirror finish on our hubs. So, it made
sense to forgo this on the Circuit. Instead, we featured
a corrosion stopping Black anodized finish with a bold
white Easton logo.
Silver spokes: Black spokes look great, but the blackening
is strictly cosmetic (and expensive!). So we used the
same premium spokes that we use in all our wheels, and
eliminated the blackening process. Besides, silver spokes
look better on a black hub.
Bearings: We need to hold extremely tight tolerances
to make our self-adjusting bearing hubs (featured on
all models except Circuit) function properly. For the
Circuit, we figured out another clever way to control
the bearing stack height and bearing preload. This saves
expensive machine time in the CNC. Rear bearings have
been slightly oversized to compensate.
Axles: With larger bearings in the rear, we were able
to grow the diameter of the axle. This allowed us to
use aluminum instead of titanium, which is considerably
less expensive.
Cassette body: We use a genuine Shimano unit for our
premium wheels. The Circuit uses a non-Shimano body that
functions similarly (internal pawl mechanism). We did
our homework, it's a very nice unit.
Construction: We spend a lot of expensive man-hours in
the building of our wheels. Each one, including Circuit
Comp, is individually built and quality control measured
by hand. When we designed Circuit, we specified a deeper
28 mm rim with a generous (by our standards) spoke count
of 24 front / 28 rear. Not only is the deeper rim more
aero, but it lends more structure to the wheel. This
allows you to build with a bit less precision than with
our other wheels. So we do not have to spend as much
time in the building and QC processes.
All of these things combine to allow us to produce a
cost effective wheel that has the light weight and strength
that you've come to expect from Easton. return
to top
Q.
Are the Pro Series Easton better than the Comp series?
In some of our competitor's line-ups, there is a quality
or performance difference between their Comp and Pro
models, but that is not the case for us. In our model
line up, Comp simply means "clincher", while
Pro designates "tubular". Sorry for any confusion.
Blame our competitors!. return to top
Q.
What's the difference between the Ascent II and the Orion
II?
This is a very common question.
In short, all our models are designed to suit a particular
application and / or rider profile. But there is a lot
of crossover, which we acknowledge can be confusing.
Okay, enough disclaimers, here are the basic guidelines
to help you choose between Ascent II and Orion II.
Ascent and Orion share the same rim, hub, etc. They are
the same wheel except for spoke count. Our design goal
for the Orion was to make a more robust Ascent so that
larger riders could enjoy the same benefit. And at 1530
grams (58 more than Ascent's 1472) Orion is still the light
weight leader. Our guideline is to transition riders from
Ascent to Orion at 165-185 lbs. But there's more to it
than just body weight.
There are lots of variables involved. Also important are
intended use, height, frame and fork combo, riding style,etc.
And our objective is to match the rider with the wheel
that will most efficiently get them from point A to point
B in the quickest time. Ultimate strength isn't the issue
- there are plenty of riders that exceed our recommendation
on Ascents, and they are holding up fine. Rather, it has
to do with rigidity. More spokes = stiffer wheel, all other
things being equal.
So here's our unofficial guideline. At the low end of the
weight scale, say that you are a 165 lb gear mashing thick-as-a-brick
rider with a known reputation for brutalizing equipment.
You intended use includes criterium racing on choppy courses
and you employ a square spin and gear mashing cadence.
You ride a fairly flexible ti frame with a flexible carbon
fork. In this example, although you could ride Ascent,
you would be better served by the Orion. For this profile,
it will be a faster wheel in most circumstances.
On the other end of the scale, let's say you are a 180
lb finesse spinner, 5'8" with an aluminum frame. You
are looking for the lightest wheels possible so that you
can beat up on your buddies on the weekend hill climb.
Road conditions are fair to good where you ride, and you
ride hard but know how to stay out of bottomless potholes.
You would be fastest riding Ascents.
Most people's fall somewhere in between these extreme examples.
For instance, one of our test riders is 178 lbs, 6'0" and
rides an aluminum frame with carbon fork that is a bit
more flexible than most. He is not too hard on equipment
but does have reasonable strength. He has been riding the
same pair of Ascent II's for over a year, and does unthinkable
things to them that you would never do (well, at least
not on purpose); because it's part of his job to try to
destroy them. So far, so good, and one minor touch up in
12 months and they are still going strong. That said, for
his profile, the Orion II would be the fastest wheel for
a typical road race. His impression is that they feel a
bit faster. Perhaps they compliment the flexible frame
/ fork platform a bit better. Then again, he remains totally
content on the Ascents as well. This test rider provides
a perfect example of someone that is squarely in the middle
of the transition zone.
To further clarify, as rider weight and height increases,
the tendency is to have larger frame (more flexible), longer
bars (again, more flexible), longer cranks, stem....you
get the picture. Plus the larger rider can deflect (flex)
the entire platform more than a smaller rider. So a wheel
with more rigidity is better in this application. Also,
expressed as a power to weight ratio, the extra 58 grams
in a set of Orions is pretty insignificant. So to get the
most performance, match the wheels to the bike, rider and
intended use.
So take all things into consideration and decide which
is better for you. Or call us, toll free at 877 Easton
and we'll help you out. return to top
Q.
How do I adjust the bearings on my Easton wheels?
A. Simple…you don't.
The bearings on Easton wheels do not need adjustments.
On all models except for Circuit Comp, the hub has an
internal spring that makes the bearing self-adjusting.
While the Circuit Comp does not share this feature, we
devised a clever way to pre-determine the bearing preload
during factory assembly, so, again, there is no adjustment
necessary. If you are experiencing some lateral play,
there is no need for alarm; it's your assurance that
the bearing is running as efficiently as possible.
In our design, there will be more inherent play, and
here's why. All bearings have some play in them. If there
were zero play, then the bearing would seize. Cartridge
bearings are intended to take radial (vertical) loads,
and are not particularly good at resisting lateral loads.
Fortunately, lateral loads are not a large component
in typical bicycle wheel conditions. When you ride, even
when leaned over in a turn, the loads remain perpendicular
to the axle.
Removing the play from bearings is typically done by
threaded adjustment. We chose to forgo having such and
adjustment because most people, bike mechanics included,
tend to over tighten the bearing, their goal being to
remove any side play. In so doing, they constrict the
function of the bearing. Then, when the quick release
is tightened, it further binds the bearing by compressing
the axle. This causes significant increases in friction
and decreases the life of the bearing.
Our design incorporates a slip fit bearing on one side
of the hub shell. A small spring is located inboard of
the slip fit bearing. This serves to regulate the preload
on the bearing so that it runs free. A small amount of
play indicated at the rim is your assurance that the
bearing runs free.
How much play is too much is a very nebulous and difficult
thing to ascertain. If there is a large "dead spot" when
you pull the rim back and forth laterally (with QR tightened
in the frame), then maybe the wheel is outside of the
normal tolerance. There are many reasons that this can
happen, and it includes a bad bearing, an undersize axle,
oversized end cap, or an oversize slip fit bore. All
of these things are very easy to correct. In fact, if
your hub had such an issue we could have diagnosed and
repaired it quicker than the time it took to write this
explanation. If you are handy with tools, you can undertake
the procedures yourself, (illustrated instructions online)
but more likely there isn't a problem per se, just a
re-orientation to the function of our hubs. That said,
if you suspect that there's too much play, you can always
contact our tech support staff for further advice and
/ or service. return
to top
Q.
Is there a trade off between lateral play and efficiency?
A. Yes.
A radial cartridge bearing is designed to take vertical
loads. The balls run in a precision groove (think of
a half pipe) that is machined into the inner and outer
races. You can remove the play from the bearing by
imposing a preload on the inner race (i.e., a threaded
adjustment), however, the likelihood of most people is
to tighten too much. And the bearings were not designed
for that, they were intended to have the balls in contact
with the bottom of the groove, not forced to the side
of it. Also, when the skewer is tightened, the axle is
compressed. This has the same effect as further tightening
the adjustment, and the preload on the bearing becomes
excessive. This causes unnecessary friction and premature
bearing wear. And it's common.
In our system, there is no adjustment. Instead, one of
the bearings is mounted in a slip fit bore in the hub.
It is backed by a wave spring internal to the hub which
imposes a set preload of approximately 5.5 psi on the
outer race of the bearing. This serves to take some,
but not all of the lash out of the bearing. Adjustment
is automatic and regulated.
The only drawback to such a system is that there is more
play, because there is play in the bearing itself. If
the bearing has zero play, then it's constrained, and
is not operating at peak efficiency. So a little play
is your insurance that the bearing is as friction free
as possible. If you were to take a bearing out of the
wheel and grasp it by it's outer race, then slip an axle
in it and lever it up and down, you would see that there
is play in even a brand new bearing. There's supposed
to be - nothing is wrong with it. In the bearing world,
there are many types, including cup and cone (typical
bicycle hub configuration) and a huge assortment of sealed
cartridge bearings. At one time, we thought about using
angular contact sealed cartridge bearings, which are
specialty cartridge bearings that do give better lateral
control. One downside - more friction. So there's always
that trade off.
We chose our bearing configuration because we felt it
gave the best performance possible. We still feel this
way. And the beauty of the system is that should a bearing
fail, or just simply wear out, you can easily and economically
replace them. The expensive custom machined hubs don't
wear out. No throwing away the baby with the bath water.
We think this shows ethical engineering.
As to exhibited play in your specific wheel, it's always
possible that something can go wrong, be it a bad bearing,
end cap, what have you. We try our very best, but sometimes
things happen. But repairs are quick and easy, and can
generally be handled by the end user without special
tools. The only thing that you might need are bearing
drifts for pressing in new bearings, and we have them
available, as well as complete instructions on line.
The press mechanism is a quick release skewer - we suspect
you already have those. :) The manuals can be found in
our Technology section of our web site. Too much play,
or just right..that's a subjective question. In short,
with
your bike suspended in the stand, grasp the rim right
next to the brake. Try to move it left to right. If it
moves with a muted motion, then it's okay. If there's
a distinct and noticeable "clunk" -- a dead
spot in the middle and hard stops on either side, then
something is amiss. Don't fret. The most difficult fix
in such a case takes about five minutes. return
to top
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